Day 16. Sunday, July 5, 2009. Mileage: 881.4 – 897 (15.6 miles)

We are crossing a number of swift river fords each day. We used to go barefoot, which worked well enough until the rivers got swifter and deeper. I now walk right through the rivers in socks and shoes so that I maintain my balance and avoid getting swept downstream. The water is frigid at these elevations so we've taken to calling it ice therapy for the abused feet and the swollen ankles. I get tickled to death by the delightful freedom in walking along the dusty trail, approaching a hip-deep river and walking straight through it without any hesitation. This morning, straight out of the gate, we had an icy river crossing, which I did in bare feet this time because I just wasn’t ready for wet socks and shoes at 8 am. I led us to the top of Silver Pass, which is rare since Dangermouse has a faster clip once we get close to summit. I walked faster than usual to outpace the relentless bugs.

On the way down, Danger salvaged the remainder of our morning by guessing that I’d put us on the wrong trail getting off the pass. After a map assessment, I realized she was right and we sorted it out. Before noon, the bugs became inescapable. I reopened a wound on my ankle bone and that was it for me mentally – time to stop walking and recover myself. I regained my composure after a sort of calming if not infantile break (i.e. a shoved-into-my-mouth meal and an immediate nap). As usual, Dangermouse exuded endless patience with me, making it very easy for me to get over my fussiness.

The trail turned to a number of sun-exposed switchbacks but my nap haze lingered and somehow encouraged a steady pace up the 1,000 foot climb to Virginia Lake. We both adored Virginia Lake – large and dazzling, surrounded by trees and tucked inside the folds of snowy peaks. After the 2 miles to Purple Lake, we were ready for our daily, cold swim. Afterwards, on our evening amble along a ridge, I felt completely charmed by the mountains and canyons to the west.

A full belly, cool weather and an evening stroll in the Sierras and the world seemed to give itself generously.

The descent from the ridge was on rocky, uneven terrain but we arrived quickly at a series of taken campsites. We talked for a bit with two vivacious, older women on the JMT, one of whom was playing the ukulele. All these campers became an audience as Danger and I attempted a very precarious river crossing on wobbly, scrawny logs. We found home about .5 miles away in a warm, not too buggy spot. I am tired and ready for the amenities of tomorrow’s town day! TOWN DAYYYY!