Day 13: Muir Pass- SNOW SUCKS!

The Southbound hikers weren’t kidding when they said Muir Pass was a long day. We did wake up early so that we could get a head start on the day. Unfortunately the snow had other plans for us. How were we to know that the snow wasn’t getting any better even though it was July? We were cruising until we hit Helen Lake and it was like someone slammed on the brakes. The snow was already ankle deep and up head didn’t look any better. Deep breath, deep breath, I told myself. This will get better. Gear up, put on warmer socks, eat a cliff bar- GO! Stop, the path came to a sharp halt and a set of footprints led up the side of the mountain. We skirted the snow for as long as we could, rock hopped until the prints stopped at a ragging snow creek and then backtracked until I somehow found the cairn nestled between two large rocks. Maneuvering between the rushing water and snow was a bit of a challenge but up ahead was a dirt path! This victory was short lived as we crossed the rushing stream and yet again and found ourselves facing an endless path of white.

The snow went on for miles. There was one set of footprints that skirted the top of the mountain and there was another set that went into the valley and back up. The topo map that Pat, a PCT hiker we had met about 5 days ago, had made it seem like we should stay on the upper path. With Pat in the lead, we took off around the valley and over the crest of the mountain. Crossing the next path was even more challenging than the last. Which was the summit? Where were we going? A consultation of the map once again pointed us in a different direction than we had originally thought.

An hour later, still trudging through the snow, we spotted the real summit. Three hikers were coming down a saddle and pointed us to the top promising that it was only 30 more minutes. The last mile to the top was painful. It was almost as if we were walking through water. Slowly but surely a hut came into view.

3 tablespoons of peanut butter, a change of socks, and a wave from a marmot we were both ready to tackle the other side. Again it was a straight snowfield. Postholing was becoming a problem and my legs were getting heavier with each step. The snow was getting wetter and my feet were being to blister as my wet socks chaffed the skin on my toes.

The day wasn’t even close to being over even though 4 hours had past. Just when I thought I couldn’t walk anymore Sapphire Lake came into view. It took another 30 minutes to reach the flat snowless rocks below, but when we did it was PARADISE. Lunch made from the last bits of food left in our bear cans, a nap, and another change of socks prepared us for the final 10 miles to camp.