Day 26. Wednesday, July 15, 2009. Mileage: 1020.8 – 1035.2 (14.6 miles)

It is day 26 and I am feeling the ambivalent weight of the PCT trip coming to an end in less than 110 miles. Since we have hit Ansel Adams Wilderness and Yosemite, both stunning and vastly diverse, I feel like I’ve really found my stride. I now sleep better in the tent than I do in the hostel or motels at resupply points. Waking up at midnight to a pack of coyotes howling from a nearby cliff has become less jarring than the hum of an air conditioning unit in a curtained room that conceals the sunrise. And relative to previous sections, the elevation has recently been a bit lower and we have had more time for swimming in the big, quiet lakes that rest in snow-crested mountains.

After a big breakfast at the hotel, Gravy, Dangermouse and I hitched with a Vietnam Vet back to Sonora Pass by noon. Just North of the pass, the gradient was the most enjoyably moderate slope. We went from 9,600 ft to 10,250 ft to 8,100, to 8,600. It began with open terrain and ridge walking alongside scores of colorful wildflowers. At the top of the ridge, I looked up to find about 20 men in a dark camouflage standing together at the summit. It was an alarming and kind of scary sight at first, but it turns out they were British soldiers in the midst of training.

A couple hours in, I was surprised to find myself on uphill switchbacks. Gravy, Danger nor I had the impression that we would be climbing uphill at this particular mile point. Danger, ever energetic, jogged ahead to see if there were any markers nearby. No luck. After some map consultation, I reassured the gang that we were on the PCT and we forged on with minor hesitance. Once we saw the expected marker for Boulder Lake Trail, we were relieved. I think uncertainties about being off trail coalesce in a group and a larger, collective anxiety emerges that makes everyone second guess more intently.

We camped at Boulder Creek, which made for a shorter mileage day than I was mentally planning. Danger had suggested that we stop for the night there, and I’m happy that she got me to snap out of it and slow down. I'm so grateful to have had the opportunity to do this hike at all but I am angsty over its approaching end.

Day 26: The countdown begins!

We only have 7 days left! To many people this might seem like a dream come true, but it is actually causing a little bit of anxiety for me. It all happened so fast. Now that I have the miles under me I want more. It is kinda like an addiction!

These thoughts, however, weren't really the focus of the whole day because at around 9 we were still ride-less. All the locals had assured us that hitching a ride to the start of the trail wouldn't be a problem yet we had been waiting for 45 minutes without even a pull over. Just as we gave up hope of getting a ride before noon a man heading to Nevada stopped. He was heading across the border to buy snuff. He couldn't take us up to the trail head, but would drop us off where the road split. The 3 of us agreed that there would be more traffic heading up to the trail at the highway juncture so we jumped in- Replay and I in the jump seats and Gravy up front with the gentleman. As we drove down the road we learned that the man up front was in the military. He had served in Vietnam and was on disability. Gravy, as an ex-military man, bonded with the driver and just when we thought we had to get out and hitch again we were heading up the road to the top of the pass where the PCT picked up again! Ah Gravy to the rescue again!

At noon we were all suited up with our backpacks full and loaded with food. By 6 pm we laughing at the fact that we had completed 15 miles in less than 6 hours! Of course there were a few hiccups along the way that might have left us in poor spirits instead.

The first one was a group of British soldiers who wanted to chat. Evidently the Queen's Marines train in our wilderness schools. Of course neither Replay nor myself really wanted to chat. Gravy was totally into it and lagged behind to swap a couple of stories.

The second hiccup of the day was the trail. Yet again the "tourist" area threw us for a loop. We thought we had crisscrossed our path with another because our elevation wasn't really matching the map. I ran up ahead for a bit to check the terrain. When I came back Gravy and Replay decided that we couldn't have made a wrong turn and I pretty much agreed. We all set off a bit apprehensive. 30 minutes down the way we found the sign post that we had hoped to see. Actually Replay saw it and I jumped for joy. Yes the Danger Mouse never goes away!

Last, but not least, the third issue of the day happened to be just about myself. For some reason my knees were killing me. I don't know if it was the intense downhill hike from yesterday or just my body telling me to rest. Thankfully Boulder Creek was the perfect spot for our home for the night so we set up shop.

Day 25: Bridgeport and the Sonora Pass

Like we planned we were on the trail by 7:10 am. Right behind us was Gravy who actually woke up earlier than us and headed off saying "you girls will catch me in no time."

Last night we realized that from our campsite at Kennedy Canyon to HWY 108, where we planned to hitchhike from, it was 11 miles. With only a cliff bar left in my bear can and a cliff bar and oatmeal left in Replay's bear can we both hoped we would be in town at least by lunch. Our energy levels were a bit low and the trail was intense. There were moments of breakdown as the trail wound up and up along broken iron bits. I know that my legs were moving at a snails pace and I'm sure the two steps forward one step backward was also plaguing Replay. I did however start to reward myself with each little accomplishment. It was almost a mind game at that point. When I made it to the top of the Old Jeep Road I took off my pack and did a couple stretches. After crossing the "notch," an intense don't fall off the edge mile long section, I indulged in half of my last remaining cliff bar.

Upon reaching the sign for the Sonora Pass Replay and I both gave a hip hip hooray cry of relief. Of course that was before we saw what was ahead- a twisting, turning, path that seemed to have no end!

It took us 45 minutes to reach the highway. When landed on the pavement and looked down at our watches they read 11:41. In actuality the walk hadn't taken any longer than predicted. Our need for food was so insistent that it had precluded all rational thoughts. Of course celebrations were not had immediately. We still had to find a ride into town and a fellow PCT hiker had already been there for 5 hours with no luck.

Many cars passed us, some stopping to offer us food, other smiling with a wave that said they didn't have room, and more than 3 stopping to make sure the full breaded crazy looking man beside us wasn't a threat. We assured them all that we were fine. We just needed a ride into town.

It seemed like hours passed, but in reality it was only 1 hour before we were in the back of a honda wedged in between hiking poles, camping supplies, and random tokens from across the US. Our kind drivers were Israeli. They had rented a car and were driving to Bishop. All of us gave them suggestions where to stop to camp and where the worst mosquitoes were. Soon enough we were at the General Store raiding the aisles to satisfy our food cravings. By the end of our adventure in the grocery store we had a full bag filled with chips, apples, yogurt, chocolate, cookies, ice cream, juice, gatorade, and popsicles. Honestly I've never been so hungry in my life!

Unfortunately we were forced to act like savages outside the Bridgeport Inn. The hours of operation were from 10-1 and 3-9. As it was 1:30 we agreed that moving too far away from our home for the night was ridiculous. There was a perfectly good shady spot right next to the building. Within minutes, the entire contents of the bag was gone. Ah Heaven!

Day 25. Tuesday, July 14, 2009. Mileage: 1010 – 1020.8 (10.8 miles)

Because it was a town day, I woke up extra early and eager to get to Bridgeport. The morning was all uphill en route to Sonora Pass. We accidently went off trail and completed a considerably steeper route for almost 2 miles on some jeep road, which explains why the brutal gradient felt so unlike the PCT’s by and large fair grade.

Sonora Pass was remarkably different from what we have seen so far. Deep brown and red mountains gave the intensity of the Bad Lands, and some of the mountains looked like the muddy drip castles children make on the shore of the beach.

Because this area was starkly absent of trees and greenery, the PCT was visible and it was feasible to predict the trail’s direction with the exposure, which is rare in the Sierras. Some snow remained on sections of the pass, which is of course not unusual to me at this point but it somehow remains shocking to walk through snow in mid-July. Other sections of the terrain were composed of pebbles and sand, which makes every step take extra energy as the foot sinks in an inch.

I could tell that I hadn’t eaten enough in the last few days, because every limb of my body was without its usually energy and force. But the moon was high in the sky and the scenery was inspiring. We had hiked 10.8 miles to Sonora Pass by 11:45 am and bummed around with some motorcyclists and Vocal until we finally got a viable hitch.

Completely out of food and with only green tea in the pack, we hitched 30 miles into Bridgeport, CA with a young Israeli couple for a major resupply for the last leg of the trek. We cruised around town to find the cheapest hotel for the night that could take us. As we waited for The Bridgeport Inn to open, we hit a deli for fruit, guacamole and chips and ate it all like happy vagrants in a parking lot.

Shower! Laundry! Resupply! Pizza! Beer! Bed-y!

Day 24: Grace Meadows and Kennedy Canyon Creek

Today was a bit chilly. I loaded up on my layers only to sweat all morning long. Why didn't I just take the layers off one might ask. Sweating is never fun especially when your blood is moving and your body is attempting to rid itself of all the cheese I inhaled yesterday. The answer to this question is simple- BUGS!

Grace Meadows was the royal palace for bugs to live. My hand actually felt like I was cutting through a solid stick of butter. When I looked down, however, there wasn't a yellow grease covering my hand. Instead it was black from the swarm of bugs. Of course wearing the head net was pretty much essential. The one problem with the head net, which of course doesn't out weigh the positives of my $1.00 purchase is the fact that I can't really see. The alternative to not seeing so great wasn't much better. Instead it was worse. All I could concentrate on during the hour hike through the area was the idea that it would end. It didn't end for 4 miles!

Finally after 2 hours of back handing bugs and running away from a creature no bigger than a grain of rice I found relief. Replay had stopped to jump in Dorothy Lake. She promised that all the ill will that I had towards Mother Nature and her evil span...aka the bugs...would vanish the moment I submerged my head under the icy water. Knowing that she was correct I stripped down and jumped in quickly. It was a miracle! I was suddenly cured of all the senseless itching and head twitching that I had to pretend was normal just 15 minutes ago.

After the oh so needed bug break we both started off again towards Dorothy's Pass. It was almost as if the bugs could sense our return. Within minutes we were again being attacked by these minute creatures who bite was worse than a regular size insect. Who would've thought!

The bug problem became much worse as the day dragged on for both of us. Now that we had been hiking for about a month our stomachs and bodies simply needed more food than what we were caring. All afternoon I dreamt about breakfast, lunch, and dinner. I dreamed of steaks, chicken, and pork all of which are not my most favorite foods. I also thought about what food I would eat on my last day on Earth. Looking back I can't believe I complained so much about how hungry I was!

I guess Replay could sense my discomfort because she slowed her pace and began searching for a snack and nap spot. When we finally found one I over indulged in my bear vault. I munched on the lunch I had planned for tomorrow as well as breakfast for the next morning. During the last couple days of hiking, especially before town, our bodies start to reject us. It seems that the body just needs more fuel than what was originally thought. Due to our combined hunger we consulted a map to really figure out the details of tomorrow's hike. How long would it take to get anywhere and what happens if it snows?

It didn't take long to decide that tomorrow was our trip into Bridgeport! We were going to camp as close to the pass as possible and each help one another out when it came to the extreme hunger in the morning. Thankfully the last couple of miles to our camp for the night was bug free and I jumped for joy knowing that Bridgeport, aka civilization, was only a couple miles up the road. Of course I did dream of food all day and all night. I don't think I've ever been so hungry in my life. I simply had nothing in my pack to feed the muscles in my legs! It was all TRASH!

Day 24. Monday, July 13, 2009. Mileage: 992.4 – 1010 (17.6 miles)

My sleeping bag zipper busted during the night and my mat is no longer inflatable; I wonder if our gear is trying to tell us something.

Walking through Grace Meadow was like freaking locusts. The bugs were a horror. Thirty of them would just sit on the outside of my head net, centimeters from my face. Though they could not bite me, the sheer proximity to the buzz was super distracting. The moment I arrived at Dorothy Lake, a sandy banked, clear lake that is nestled between snow capped peaks, I stripped down in seconds and dove in to wash off the morning. Submergence is the best way to clear my head out here. Dangermouse did the same thing and felt better afterwards as well.

Since we've been hiking 16-22 miles daily, a major spike in hunger has set in the last week. We are now carefully rationing cheese, oatmeal and Cliff Bars inside our bear vaults as we have suddenly found ourselves consuming almost double than the previous week. So we ate some snacks from our low food supply, then hiked onwards. Tough days call for lots of breaks so we took another one in a rare, shaded and bug free spot. We both ended up eating our lunch for tomorrow too, so we each only have breakfast and a nutrition bar left.

The miles are going by faster each day even though my legs are tired. Kennedy Canyon Creek suddenly appeared, so we were at our day’s destination before 5:30, which is really early.

As is habit, I hit the tent before dark and Danger kicks it around camp for a bit longer before turning in. Gravy is camping here too.

Day 23: Main Canyon Trail

Why do the bugs wake up just when I want to get up and going? I think they all have a personal hatred of Replay and myself. Due to this little problem we both opted for a cold quick breakfast. Since we were off an running early this morning we agreed to meet at Sparkling Pond and assess the bug zone.

Sparkling Pond was incredible. Just like Goldielocks would say it was "just right." It wasn't too cold or too deep. The rocks provided a perfect slide into the water and it was crystal clear. I decided that this was my one pond to skinny dip in so I jumped in sans clothing. I laid on my back for a good 2 minutes before jumping out. It was so relaxing to just sit there and think about the joy of my current lifestyle. This adventure has given me a totally different view of life than any of my other travels. Life really can be simple and finding joy in the simple things brings a huge smile to my face.

We warmed our cold bodies with tea and apple ginger cakes. Newly fueled we started off again up to Stubbyfield Canyone Creek. Lunch came quicker than any of the previous days. Perhaps it was because we had second breakfast but all of the sudden we were cleaning up and heading towards the big climb of the day. Macomb Ridge led us up and around giant white boulders which had been sandblasted by the surrounding mountains.

While were were admiring the view a group of hikers stopped us. They were issuing a "bug alert." Up ahead the bugs got much worse. The couple suggested we camp by a sliding waterfall where the bugs were in short supply. They also mentioned that we should avoid Wilmer Lake.

Wilmer Lake was a hothouse for bugs. I attempted to fill up my water bottle so that we could have water for cooking but as soon as I put my pack down it was a full asault. I was covered in bugs and Replay couldn't hang around to help out. She told me she'd wait for me up ahead.

The sliding waterfall wasn't much farther up the trail. While we were indulging in our buy free zone with foot and drink we were approached by Ranger Rachel. She asked to see our permit and checked to see that we had our bear vaults. She also told us that the reason the bugs were so bad. This year the snow was a bit late so the bugs were hanging around. She promised that by August Yosemite would be the perfect camping/hiking park. I told her I would be back this way at that time to make sure she was correct!

The map showed a little campsite 3.2 miles up the trail. The walk there was nice. Replay and I chatted most of the way except when the bugs swarmed us around a small creek. We both got really silent at that moment and concentrated only on walking.

When we did arrive at our destination we immediately set up camp. Replay was still under fire from the bugs. She crawled into the tent early- I think it was 7:00! and I decided to make a new friend. There was a gentleman camping below. After I finish my journal entry I plan to go meet him.

Day 23. Sunday, July 12. Mileage: 976 – 992.4 (17 miles)

I slept warm for the first time last night since we were only at 8,000 ft. We ate an uncooked breakfast so we could quickly flee bug hell.

A few miles north, Sparkling Pond, a clear, cool alpine lake, provided a heavenly spot to swim and have hot tea. Sparkling Pond is this small lake that rests like a quiet secret, a whisper. And all the frustration of yesterday evening melted away.

Feeling refreshed, we finished climbing Seavey Pass and then cruised downhill.

We had a relaxed lunch (cheese and crackers; a ProBar) by a rushing river, which boosted me hugely for the next two uphills. I worked hard as hell to get up Macomb Ridge quickly for some reason, but I was feeling confident in how I’ve strengthen physically since we started. It feels like the Sierras are more of a home now 23 days in; it is no longer this distant, possibly conquerable dream.

For about the last 200 miles, the PCT aligned with the John Muir Trail- a lovely but heavily populated section. Once the two trails diverged, I was relieved to encounter fewer southbound John Muir hikers. The drop in trail traffic has been peaceful and we can walk for days and see but a few of the same thru-hikers. Although I enjoy the relative solitude, the co-reliance and the consistent friendless that long distance hikers provide one another amazes me. There is a level of ease and understanding with which hikers approach one another, and sharing information about what's ahead comes forth in a way that is effortless and true blue. Giving away food, water, bug spray when another hiker is running low comes naturally and quickly from everyone.

We found some flat rocks by giant, white rapids and cooked dinner there since the quick water kept the bugs at bay. A female ranger stopped by and asked for our permit and bear box. She explained that the horrendous misquotes were due to the late snowpack this year. We hiked a couple more miles after dinner and camped with a thru hiker named Gravy. Great day.

Day 22: Replay's Birthday and Benson Lakes Trail

What a morning! Today is Replay's BIRTHDAY! Gravitron stopped in to join us for breakfast. While we were packing up camp he wished Replay a very happy birthday. I planned a little birthday activity for the day and he was a great person to kick off the "party."

Once we left camp we ran into 2 loggers and their pack of 10 horses. Somehow after leap frogging the pack for about 4 miles I managed to finally pass them once and for all. Before we parted paths I asked them to wish Replay a happy birthday. They were very excited to be included in the celebration.

Free of the horse smells, we arrived at a beautiful sandy beach surrounded by tall pines. I don't know if it was the sound of the crashing waves on the beach or the crystal blue water, but Replay decided it was the perfect spot for a birthday swim. I did manage to catch the production on video.

Wilson Creek was the next destination of the day. Once we got to the shore we scoped out the perfect path of rocks that would keep our feet dry. Replay led the way of course. Just as she was about to cross the creek without a "whoops" she took a very scary spill. Her feet went out from under her and she crashed on top of her pack. Thank goodness she was wearing her pack correctly. It totally broke her fall. Unfortunately in the process she punctured a hole in her sleeping mat. In order to regroup, we opted to stop for lunch a bit early. This gave us a bit of extra time to dry out our wet shoes and socks as well as figured out if anything else in Replay's pack was damaged.

The next part of the day was spent climbing Benson Pass. The trail wound past huge pine trees, trickling broks, huge boulders, and even a rather large waterfall. Even though the sun was at it's highest point in the sky we protected by the shade of trees. At the top, the landscape suddenly changed. It looked as if we had crossed into New Mexico. The trail was sandier, the trees disappeared, and little shurbs dotted the side of the mountian. We posed for a quick day 22 shot at the top of the pass and refilled our water bottles with water that was running beneath the snow melt.

The trail took us down down down until we hit Benson lakes. I swear my knees almost gave out from under me. The gradient was about a 9.1 which in regular people terms in like a staircase.

We were practically running to find a mozzy free zone. They were everywhere. In our eyes, in our noses, clibming into our jackets and even underneath our headnets. Just when I had given up hope that the night would end on a high note I spoted a flat ridge. Off to the right previous hikers had left wood for a fire so we immediately got to work. We threw pine needles, a fire starter, and tons of wood in the fire pit . Once we had a nice blaze going the bugs retreated and we were able to chill out a bit. Mountian House was the perfect birthday dinner. A vegan cookie was the perfect hiker birthday cake substitute.

Day 22. Saturday, July 11, 2009. Mileage: 959 – 976 (17 miles)

First sound that registered in my fog of waking: Dangermouse wishing me a happy birthday! While I cooked breakfast, Gravitron walked up to our camp and stayed to eat with us. He became the first of many that day to hand me a folded note from Danger that she had slipped him – all together these notes would spell “H-a-p-p-y-B-d-a-y” but each letter represented a kind word about me from Jess. I hiked behind some loggers with horses most of the morning, and the loggers, of course, eventually gave me one of these birthday notes. One wildly ascetic cowboy that I passed even sang me Happy Birthday!

At the sandy shored Miller Lake, I had my obligatory, first polar bear swim as a 27 year old (Jess has it on video). Not long after we started back on the day’s miles, my moving at a trail-blazing speed to get across a quick moving creek on slippery rocks ended in a nasty and kind of spastic looking spill in the water. I could tell by the look on Dangermouse’s face that the fall looked worse than it was. I was wet but my inflatable sleeping mat took the impact of the rocks for me. Though the sleeping mat has three visible holes and is no longer inflatable, I emerged unscathed from what could have been a serious bruisin'. We sat down right there by the creek and had a lovely lunch looking up at gray, cragged rock faces while my things dried. I’m so hungry now at meal time.

The climb from 8500 ft to 10150 ft at Benson Pass felt long but was perhaps my favorite scenery yet – New Mexico like greenery and rock sculptures were ominously watched over by Yosemite’s monster peaks on all sides. I felt so soaringly happy at the summit. Jess’ birthday notes to me made me feel so driven and outgoing– I think my happiness was partly feeling empowered by her confidence in me. Perhaps the other part was my belief that there on this particular summit in the Sierras was exactly where I wanted to be.

On the downhill, the bugs appeared with la fuerza, particularly once we descended in to a swampy bog. At the time of the bug invasion, dressed as a Haz Mat worker in my headnet, I was having a freaking meltdown over a blister on the bottom of my foot; there was definitely a sort of break building in both of us (though I was losing it a little more; Dangermouse handles the mosquito onslaughts better than I do). She spotted a rough but suitable enough campsite and we jumped on the chance to just stop walking. Our fire ameliorated the bug crisis as well as our moods.

There is a small tornado of moods and possibilities in each day on the trail. On a day where I achieved no small amount of bliss, I later found myself spouting off at the mouth to Jess about how this day as too trying and I was tired of the hike. Maybe I am a bit emotionally labile, but the trail can truly sway a day.

Day 21. Friday, July 10, 2009. Mileage: 938 -959 (21 miles)

A pack of coyotes howled for a while after midnight. I love to hear those wild dogs at night but when I awoke to their excited calls, I realized I was shivering from the cold. I need a new sleeping bag.

I had the wrong dates written in my journal and thought it was my birthday all morning. Moron. Though it was exciting to realize that I had kind of relinquished an accurate connection with the day of the week.

We hiked 5.6 miles to Tuolumne Meadows and then .5 off trail to get to a store for more food. I called Mom’s cell and she was with Dad, Sam, Lauren, and Jaime in the Bronx!

After a 2 hour break chatting with Gravitron and some other hikers, we began hiking (now in Yosemite!) through the crowds of weekenders and campers until we were blissfully alone again. The terrain – water rushing with a fury over flat, white rocks – was stunning. We passed the infamously bear terrorized Glen Allen campground.

By 7:00, we had hiked 20 plus miles and made camp at an awesomely homey site.

We now set up our tent in record time and get to making hot food and enjoying our new home for the night before we lose all light.

A tiny whirlpool on a river excited by lots of warm, little bubbles became our “hot tub” and we lit up our first campfire. God, this is fun.






The lighting was stunning at sunset and we warmed our cold, exhausted bodies by the fire, feeling intensely satisfied after a 21 mile day. This has been one of my favorite days out here.

Day 21: Tuolumne Meadows

In the middle of the night we were woken up by high pitched howls of coyotes. Replay, in her adoration of all things wildlife, was much more excited by this than I was. I of course was fearful that the howling would get closer than I so desired. There was one howler that was just to the right of the tent. The idea of only a thin thin piece of material between me and a set of teeth wasn't a very restful thought. The rest of my night was spent tossing and turning!

When we finally decided to leave the tent we looked out to see frost covering the ground. This was definitely the coldest morning yet. My body just wouldn't move fast enough to get warm. I spent the majority of my mourning routine in my sleeping bag and then layered all of my clothes to trap the heat close to my shivering limbs. It wasn't until mile 5 that I started to remove the layers.

Our destination for today was Tuolumne Meadows to resupply and indulge in "real hot food." Tuolumne is the "non valley" part of Yosemite National Park so it has all the amenties any hiker could need. All the trails are well maintained and the trees all have a "T" carved into them. According to my park ranger friend when Theodore Roosevelt first established the park service he had the military act as the park service employees. These men marked the trails with giant "Ts" on them to denote the correct path.

The moment we arrived coffee was ordered and we spent the next 30 minutes ogling the food aisles of the grocery store. Lunch wasn't served until 11:35 am (yes the 5 minutes was very crucial and we were turned around when we went in at 11:30) so we cleaned our water bottles and cookware in the bathroom sink. The bear vaults were empty and we took full advantage of the bear proof trashcans in the parking lot outside of the camp store. Once the clock struck 11:35 we were first in line ordering vegetarian chilli and another cup of coffee.

During lunch we met a group of 4 gentleman who had just finished an extended weekend trip in the the backcountry. They mentioned that VA anyon was a great spot to camp and to watch out for the mosquitos because they were out in full force. We thanked them for the advice and decided that we would try to make it to VA Canyon, but due to the fact that it was 15 miles away we planned for a second campsite for the night.

Somehow around 4:00 we were already 12 miles down the road. VA Canyon was looking better and better plus another gentleman we met while enjoying our afternoon snack mentioned he had stacked wood near VA Canyon.

We arrived at the campsite around 6:00 and celebrated our first 20 mile day with a campfire and a dip in the river's hot tub. Today was truly awesome. We were both grooving in the same pace, our bellies were full and happy, and the evening's campfire and sunset was the icing on our perfect day.

Day 20: Donahue Pass

The Wicked Witch of the West visited our tent last night. I think she may have mistaken our tent for Dorothy's house. The wind blew through our campsite like a tornado and woke both of us up. The wind refused to leave our side until a little bit after 3am which is when I finally relaxed and snoozed. At 7:45 am, usually the time when we are packing up camp to leave, we woke up.

The morning continued to be slower than usual, but instead of stressing about it we enjoyed a Sunday morning style breakfast. I did Sudoku while munching on my "Spiderwoman breakfast" and Replay read Time Magazine. It was almost like we hadn't officially decided to leave the pleasures of "town" behind us.

As the clock hands ticked towards 12:00, Replay decided that we should continue to enjoy our relaxing morning and chill on a flat rock by Red's Creek. The sun wasn't too hot yet and both of us agreed that our tan lines were a bit out of control. I was getting a really lovely knee brace tan that was just all too noticeable! An hour passed and we agreed that it was time to tackle Donahue Pass.

It wasn't long before we were at the summit relaxing yet again on a big flat rock. Funny enough while enjoying the sunshine from this new rock we met Spiderwoman. She was the person whose breakfast we enjoyed just 6 hours prior. She had shipped food to herself without realizing she had a whey allergy. All of her homemade breakfast meals included dehydrated vanilla whey so she left them in a box at our last motel for anyone to enjoy. Not wanting to turn down free food we packed up enough to fulfill our breakfast requirement until we arrived in Yosemite. We thanked her for her generosity and wished her the best of luck with the rest of her hike.

Going down is never as easy as going up. Everyone swears that the downhill is the best part of the climb, but it just kills my knees. I slowed my pace and took extra time to place my poles and feet with each step. This of course slowed my pace down and soon enough Replay was just a spot amongst the rocks and boulders lining the trail. Lost in my thoughts of careful foot placement I didn't realize when Replay was no longer in front of me. This quickly became a problem.

At the start of the morning we had discussed sleeping at Base Camp, but when I passed the area Replay was nowhere to be found. I figured she had kept walking, zening out, enjoying the ease of the hike. Little did I know at that moment that she had stopped for a bathroom break and thrown her pack on the trail so that when I passed I'd notice that she. Well not so much because I blew past her.

Once it started to get closer to dinner time I began to wonder why she hadn't stopped yet. I kept looking in all the perfect dinner spots, but she never appeared. Frantic Jess started coming out in full force around 6:30. Tears formed around 6:45 and yelling, which went unanswered, began around 7. I did pass a couple groups of hikers one of which mentioned they had seen the friend I described pass them about an hour ago. This fact sent me into a total state of panic. My pace increased, my heart rate shot up, and my tears got bigger. In my gut I thought she was behind me, but in my head it didn't match up since the previous group had told me that she was a fair distance up the trail.

At somepoint, I turned around a saw 4 hikers who I had passed coming down from the Donahue Summit. I inquired about my friend and they too believed she was up ahead of me. Just then I heard someone calling my name. Running down the trail was Replay. To say it was a teary reunion would be an understatement. I pretty much lost it for about 5 minutes.

In between my sobs, Replay told me how she had been jogging for the last 20 minutes trying to catch up to me. She had seen me pass while visitng the woodland ladies room. Due to the fact that Replay is my perfect hiking partner she knew I wouldn't stop walking until I found her. It was then that she broke into a jog and managed to catch up to me.

Ah I so love my hiking partner!

Day 20. Thursday, July 9, 2009. Mileage: 922 – 938 (16 miles)

It was windy as hell last night and in a strange, half-awake scene I woke up and yelled “Auntie M! Auntie M!” to Jess. Apparently, in my dreamy but alarmed state, I thought a good Wizard of Oz tornado joke was in order.

We slept in until 7:45. The morning took us around a series of Ansel Adams Wilderness lakes. We took an early break to lie in the sun on giant rocks alongside a river just before Island Pass. It makes the day so enjoyable to throw in a swim, even if it is just a half dip in a river.

Later in the day, I took my time and walked slowly over Donahue Pass. There was some snow to cross but it was an easy pass. We chilled at the lake at the top before heading down the other rocky side. The day would not stay this relaxed for long.

At a bathroom stop, Dangermouse didn’t see my pack resting trailside and breezed unknowingly past me. We usually leap frog all day long, but we always know who is in front and approximately how far in front (usually within sight). Because Jess did not realize she had passed me, for almost 3 hours we both chased the other. Dangermouse, thinking I was still ahead of her and moving fast, speed hiked without stopping. In my gut, I knew that this was what was happening. After some jogging, I caught my teary hiking partner. Losing one another, however briefly, was more of an emotional experience than I would have anticipated.

Day 19: Quicksand and Ansel Adams Wilderness

The morning began at the Stellar Brew Cafe with a hot breakfast. I can't even begin to explain how much I love a cup of hot coffee and a tasty treat that isn't oatmeal. The coffee was bold, rich and full of flavor and my eggs and toast hit the spot.

After we'd both checked our emails at the cafe's computer, we spotted a post office. Replay wanted to mail home her UV light water treatment device and I had a couple of postcards to send home. Around 10:00 am we were out of the hotel and on the trolley up to the mountain. Little did we know, but the trolley wasn't our final ride to the PCT. After the trolley we jumped on the bike shuttle bus then we were shuffled onto a National Park Bus. The whole process took about an hour and 15 minutes!

I'm not sure if the extended road trip or my bout of "sea sickness" threw off my map skills, but the first 4 miles of the day were actually not on the PCT. According to the map we were to head South on the out of Red's Meadow and immediately we would be back on the PCT. Not so much! We walked 2 military miles towards Fish Creek not Devils Postpile, which was our first landmark of the morning. Thankfully we ran into 2 other PCT hikers who had made the same mistake as us. We all consulted the map together to confirm our location and decided that the most direct route was to follow the trail back to Red's Meadow and walk in a more westerly direction.

Finally at 1:15 we were on the correct trail along with a million summer tourists searching for the rare geologic site- the Devil's Postpile. This columar basalt formation towers 60 feet high and is a result of lava flow that occrred 100,000 years ago. As the lava was pushed upward it created pillars of hexagonal shape. Honestly it was a spectacular and strange site. Dodging the large groups of tourists who had flooded the park during the summer month to see the sight did take away some of the rock's beauty though.

Back on the PCT we left not only the tourists behind but also the JMT hikers. Until we arrive in Yosemite we won't be running into any JMT'ers from here on out. I think this might be a nice break. The trail was a bit overcrowded the last couple of days. You really can't get into the zone when so many people are passing. Today, however, I began my first serious faze out mode. As we began a steady climb up into the Ansel Adams Park boundary line I feel pretty far behind Replay. The wild irises, untouched hidden lakes, and rocky cliffs took my full attention thus my pace slowed to that of a snail. I got so far behind Replay that she was only a red spec on the horizon.

Once the sky started to get darker, my stomach began to growl. I figured I should at least attempt to catch up with Replay and leave my "rock gazing" til tomorrow. At 7:30 I was finally close enough to Replay to suggest we stop for a bite to eat. Dinner was in the shelter of a couple of trees over looking the valley below. Almost as son as we cleaned up, the temperature dropped dramatically. Our evening hike which is typically our cool down was more of a run. Umm actually it was more like an old woman hobbel. The moment we were out of the wind and in the shelter of the trees we found a campsite and settled in for the night curled up against one another for warmth.

Day 19. Wednesday, July 8. Mileage: 908 – 922 (14 PCT miles plus 2 miles backtracking)

The trails around Red’s Meadow were confusing and we got on the wrong trail before another hiker told us that we weren’t on the PCT. Walking mistakenly off trail is so frustrating particularly because we had been walking in sand, which is difficult period but is even more so on Danger’s hip.

We took a side trip to see the impressive and bizarre Devil’s Postpile – a national monument. Tourist explosion and couldn’t get out of there fast enough. Once the trail (temporarily) separated from the John Muir Trail and (permanently) left behind the scores of Devil’s Postpile tourists, I felt my dark clouds lift and I walked renewed. Town stops can leave a person feeling a little anxious and off centered after weeks of hiking, feeling adrift in a melding of circumstances as competing priorities and contradictions that maybe don't exist on the trail emerge. A few wrought emails and catching up on weeks of news in one sitting alone can leave me feeling a bit wrecked. I am relieved that I could lay it all down and walk until the dark clouds grew distant.

The end of the day was along a ridge, which I took as a brilliant welcome to the Ansel Adams Wilderness.

Our zucchini and cous cous dinner was yummy, and I feel happy to be sleeping in the tent tonight. It is going to be a cold night, but we walked all the day’s mileage after 1 pm so I am tired enough not to care about the cold.

Day 18. Tuesday, July 7. 0 miles.

Physically I am feeling pretty fantastic. Covering up to 18 miles a day is getting easier as our pace has quickened. Our goal of making it to South Lake Tahoe is very much within reach.

Today was a zero day (i.e. giving the legs a break with zero mileage) in Mammoth Lakes, a skier/hiker/climber friendly town. My first shower in 10 days was not enough to get the perma-dirt rings off my ankles. Dangermouse and I ate a veggielicious lunch at The Good Life Café and bummed around town at the coffee shop, library, etc.

I think in total we have hiked about 250 miles (counting off trail miles) during our tour of the good life. While my back and legs are thanking me for the day off, I'm itching to get back on the trail and get to Yosemite.

Day 18: Zero Day!

Ah how I love zero days!

Yesterday while I was doing laundry for roughly 2 hours (the machines were broken and stayed on the "fill cycle" for over an hour) I met a gentleman who was biking the top half of California. He had just quit his job as a city bus driver and decided to bike from LA to the California/Oregon border to kick off his retirement. While we were discussing the benefits of lyrca- he had just purchased a new bike shirt and I was attempting not to melt my only pair of hiking shorts in the dryer- the topic of food came up. I'm pretty sure I started salivating when he mentioned that the outfitter where he had just purchased his new duds was directly across the street from a lovely cafe called Looney Beans. The muffins were fabulous and the coffee was the best in town. I didn't need any more convincing after just those too words "muffins" and "coffee." I raced upstairs to tell Replay the good news that I had found our coffee spot for the morning.

Looney Beans was as amazing as my biker friend said. Notonly was there a computer and hot coffee but the atmosphere was perfect. The place was packed with locals and the staff couldn't have been nicer. Replay used the computer for about an hour while I read the latest Time Magazine from cover to cover. I don't think I've ever done that in a single setting! We definetly had removed ourselves from civilization. Michael Jackson had passed away and the debate over health care was in full swing. It is amazing what happens in just over a week!

Shaky from all the coffee we'd consumed, Replay and I decided that groceries and lunch were in order. Earlier this morning we had consulted the "PCT hiker's bible" aka Yogi's PCT guide for lunch spot suggestions. The Goodlife cafe was a vegetarian favorite and the friendly gas station attendent, who we'd met the night before when we used the pay phone out front, said it was one of the better places in town. He probably could've simply said cheap veggies and we would've gone. Food is such a motivator at this point in the hike. Each time we get into town we indulge to the extent that we fell ill. I would even go on to say that our binges are worse than any holiday festivity eat-athon. I guess our bodies are lacking certain foods? Hmm

After our salad and a wrap lunch we headed to the library to check out the FREE Internet. Mammoth Lakes isn't a huge town, but it has every amenity that I could ever want- groceries, restaurants, a library, and a ski mountian! Once our time had expired at the library we decided to go back to the motel to clean up for dinner.

Dinner was a Mexican feast. A number of the library volunteers had suggested it boasting it had the best veggies in town. Unfortunately we might have over indulged in the avacado and chips or perhaps it was the pretend meatless burrito because around 2AM Replay rushed to pray to the bathroom gods.

Day 17. Monday, July 6, 2009. Mileage: 897 – 908 (11 miles)

My watch was broken but I think I woke up at 5:30 am to Dangermouse’s horror. We walked 11 miles by 11 am. Oh, town legs, how you carry me. Towards the end of the day, we entered a stark and kind of jarring burnt section. Post-lightning fire, the thousands of remaining trees were now all halved and jagged, their tops severed and still smelling of burn on the ground. The heat and the desolation of this section was unsettling; here were the severe remnants of a space where something spectacular and intense had clearly happened.

By the time we reached a modest sign that read “Café / Store / Bus”, I was nearly spinning off the planet with hyperactivity (there is a funny video of this that Jess filmed at our arrival at the sign). Following the sign took us to Red’s Meadow where we saw thru hikers Buddy and Strider. If we had planned to resupply at Red’s, we both would have been fine with the food available. But we were gunning for Mammoth Lakes for a zero day, so a quick bus ride with a gratingly talkative driver and a hitch dropped us at a Motel 6 in town. Laundry, a shower, Mammoth Brewing Company, ice cream, bed.

Day 16. Sunday, July 5, 2009. Mileage: 881.4 – 897 (15.6 miles)

We are crossing a number of swift river fords each day. We used to go barefoot, which worked well enough until the rivers got swifter and deeper. I now walk right through the rivers in socks and shoes so that I maintain my balance and avoid getting swept downstream. The water is frigid at these elevations so we've taken to calling it ice therapy for the abused feet and the swollen ankles. I get tickled to death by the delightful freedom in walking along the dusty trail, approaching a hip-deep river and walking straight through it without any hesitation. This morning, straight out of the gate, we had an icy river crossing, which I did in bare feet this time because I just wasn’t ready for wet socks and shoes at 8 am. I led us to the top of Silver Pass, which is rare since Dangermouse has a faster clip once we get close to summit. I walked faster than usual to outpace the relentless bugs.

On the way down, Danger salvaged the remainder of our morning by guessing that I’d put us on the wrong trail getting off the pass. After a map assessment, I realized she was right and we sorted it out. Before noon, the bugs became inescapable. I reopened a wound on my ankle bone and that was it for me mentally – time to stop walking and recover myself. I regained my composure after a sort of calming if not infantile break (i.e. a shoved-into-my-mouth meal and an immediate nap). As usual, Dangermouse exuded endless patience with me, making it very easy for me to get over my fussiness.

The trail turned to a number of sun-exposed switchbacks but my nap haze lingered and somehow encouraged a steady pace up the 1,000 foot climb to Virginia Lake. We both adored Virginia Lake – large and dazzling, surrounded by trees and tucked inside the folds of snowy peaks. After the 2 miles to Purple Lake, we were ready for our daily, cold swim. Afterwards, on our evening amble along a ridge, I felt completely charmed by the mountains and canyons to the west.

A full belly, cool weather and an evening stroll in the Sierras and the world seemed to give itself generously.

The descent from the ridge was on rocky, uneven terrain but we arrived quickly at a series of taken campsites. We talked for a bit with two vivacious, older women on the JMT, one of whom was playing the ukulele. All these campers became an audience as Danger and I attempted a very precarious river crossing on wobbly, scrawny logs. We found home about .5 miles away in a warm, not too buggy spot. I am tired and ready for the amenities of tomorrow’s town day! TOWN DAYYYY!

Day 17: The speedy hike to Red's Meadow

I have no idea what happened this morning. Replay's morning routine of pulling off all her extra layers including hats, gloves, fleece and cracking her knuckles woke me up around 5:45. I of course quickly stopped the final knuckle crack and insisted that we sleep at least another 30 minutes. My idea of an extra bit of sleep was not meant to be. When the clock struck 6:00 there was no stopping Replay's desire to get into town. Usually breakfast and packing up takes about an hour, but not today. Replay left camp by 6:52 and I followed behind her at 7:04. I even have a picture to prove it!

Running behind Replay's wake of dust and speed I somehow managed to keep up with my short little legs. I have to admit that my treking poles are a big part of the reason why I can move so fast on days like this. I'm not sure about the physics of the process, but my center of balance is actually centered and I can extend my stride. Amazing! Even though I couldn't see Replay up ahead on the trail I knew how far behind I was because about every 15 minutes a group of JMT Whitney bound hikers would pass and mention my speedy friend. Everyone was impressed by our distance and honestly we were as well.

At 9:00 ,we arrived at Deer Creek. We had just walked 6 miles in 2 hours! Our usual pace is somewhere around 2 mph. I suppose we've both got a little bit of the town leg phenomena going on today. The idea of food, a clean bed, a hot shower, and clean laundry looked better and better as the mile markers ticked closer to zero. The other reason why we were moving so quickly today was that the trail was almost all downhill. After what seemed like an hour of switchbacks we found ourselves in the middle of a burn zone.

The trees that remained standing were more like toothpicks rather than Redwoods. The ground was covered in prickly brush that pulled at our socks and dug into our ankles as we passed. The ash from the fallen trees stained my legs with dark black marks.

I kinda lost myself during this 2 mile stretch. The destruction of the land was a little too much to handle especially after spending so many hours enjoying the splendor of mother nature. To think that a single lightening strike could destroy such beauty brought sadness into my heart.

This feeling didn't last too long because around 11:15 I found Replay sitting next to a sign "FOOD, CAFE, BUS." I actually argued with her for 5 minutes denying that we could be so close to our destination so early in the morning. About 1/2 mile up the trial however,we found Red's Meadows Resort and two friends we'd met our first night on the trail. Strider and Buddy offered their congrats and big welcome to civilzation hugs. They directed us to the cheapest motel in Mammouth Lakes and suggested a couple of restuarants that fit nicely into our penury budgets. Strider mentioned that the Motel 6 didn't have a fridge, but cable was the best part of his zero day. A zero day is a hiker term reserved for a no hiking, no walking, just relaxing day. Most hikers use it to restock, wait for packages at the post office, and tend to their battered bodies. Replay and I were incredibly excited for a day off the trail. Not sleeping in a bed or showering for the last 9 nights really puts the benefits of the modern world into perspective.

With another hug goodbye, we jumped on the bus and left Buddy and Strider to the PCT. While enjoying the motorized ride out of the National Park, we met a lovely couple who offered to give us a ride down to the town of Mammonth. The bus dropped everyone off at the ski resort and it was another hike down to town. Not wanting to refuse the kindess of strangers we jumped in, smelling worst than I could even desribe, and enjoyed the 20 minute wheeled ride into town. Best of all, the couple not only dropped us off at Motel 6, a destination they had no idea existed, but they waited until we had secured a room before they drove away wishing us lots of luck during the remainder of our hike. I must find a way to repay all of those indivdiuals who have helped us thest last 17 days.

Day 16: Lake Virginia and the Duck Lake Trail

I thought it was going to be a warm night last night so I opted to go sans sleep sheet. Little did I know that around 1:30 am a wind with the force of an 18 wheeler rolled into our camp. The temperature dropped significantly and my once perfectly cozy sleeping bag turned into an ice box. I did snuggle up next to Replay and with our combined body heat I managed to get a couple more hours of sleep. Every 30 minutes though the howl of the wind would begin the process of snuggle, wiggle, and turn over to get warm.

Around 7:15 the sun broke through the protective layer of our tent . Sleepy doesn't even begin to describe how I felt. I actually think Replay had the same groggy feeling, which made me smile. I'm usually the slow person in the morning, but today we were both moving slower than normal.

The mornings itinerary included Silver Pass. I think Replay might have slept a bit better than me last night- how I'm not sure, but she took off like a light. Before I knew it she was out of my sight and I was left to battle the pass alone. Going at it alone was something new and challenging for me. Usually we walk the passes together due to a variety of factors including snow, loss of trail, moral support, etc, but I have to admit it wasn't that bad. The pass was only 10,900 feet which compared to the last couple was just a mole hill. When I did reach the top, or what appeared to be the top, I noticed Replay perched on a boulder overlooking the valley below. She was having "second lunch" but I wasn't ready for it yet. Plus when I looked up I noticed that the pass really wasn't over yet. I figured I had made it this far on my own so why not finish the climb? On I went zigging and zagging until the tip top.

Because I was concentrating so deeply on making it to the top I didn't notice the loud voices up ahead. To my utter surprise, a group of 15 boys watched and even cheered as I took the last couple of steps to the top. Immediately there was a barrage of questions about how long it took me to get to this spot, where was I coming from, how heavy was my pack, and if I was alone. When I answered that I had been on the trail for 16 days and my ultimate destination was Tahoe they all looked at me in amazement.

"From here to Tahoe is a 3 hour drive in a car," shouted one of the boys.
"We've only been out here 2 days and I can't wait to get home," yelled another.

Thankfully Replay wasn't too far behind so before they could continue with the interrogation we glissaded down the bumpy bumpy snow back to nature's best gift- SILENCE! The course down was a bit trying at times because of the snow covered path and runoff from the melting snow. We choose to stick together once the trail got confusing. At one point we were headed back up the pass! Hiking alone defiintley has its perks but I have to say hiking with a partner is much better espeically in these types of situations.

8 miles later we were munching on lunch at Fish Creek. Because we were ahead of "schedule" I say this with a bit of jest we thought why not take advantage of the perfect sunny weather. For the next 2 hours we soaked up all the rays we wanted and occasionally dipped our feet in the cool water of the creek. Everyone that passed us was a bit jealous of our perfect afternoon spot.

With a bit of grunting and groaning we woke up from our afternoon naps and consulted the map. It was 2.8 miles to Lake Virginia and another 1.5 to Purple Lake. We figured we'd meet at Purple Lake to swim/bathe and eat dinner. Our habit of eating and then sunset hiking was becoming more of tradition at this point. We both loved an extended dinner hour and the cooler air temperature of the later hours of the day is just ideal for hiking. I also love the fact that the night hikes are at a much slower pace. It is the cool down part of the day both physically and mentally.

Once we got to Purple Lake we jumped in the freezing water and waited for our clothes to dry. We do attempt to stay fairly "clean" and I have to admit my clothes aren't too bad. I can't say enough about my Icebreaker shirt. Wool is totally the way to go. As the sun dipped below the mountain we stayed warm with cheesy broccoli pasta and push ups.