Day 8. Saturday, June 27. 2009. Mileage: 783 – 791.4 (8.4 PCT miles plus 2 miles backtracking plus 7.5 miles over Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley)

Today was tough, and I delved into a bad mood over some mileage backtracking and indulged in my mounting frustration that this was our third physically and mentally demanding day in a row. The morning was great until we learned that we had passed the turnoff to Kearsarge Pass (my fault primarily), which leads to Onion Valley Trailhead where we planned to hitch into town. I was livid at the PCT Atlas’ lack of clarity and my own insistence on the wrong direction. This confounded by hunger from not eating dinner last night or lunch today sent me into a fit of pouting.

In an attempt to ditch my attitude, I pretended that I was journalist doing a story on military training in the remote Sierras. (I later found out from a hitch that this area is, in fact, used frequently in training US military.) What really helped me out of my funk and over the pass were the gorgeous lakes nestled in the neighboring mountains. As we neared the top of the pass, I realized that this is exactly how I pictured the John Muir Wilderness.

On the seemingly endless switchbacks downhill to Onion Valley, we met a danky, L.A. couple in their 60s with two dachshunds who gave us a ride to Lone Pine. We had learned from a thru hiker, Strider, that it was best to hitch south into Lone Pine for resupply b/c the Independence grocery store had closed. As usual, Dangermouse entertained our hitch couple with talk of travel in Asia and New Zealand while I zoned out, crouching in the back of their car with the dogs. We were so amped to be back in Lone Pine for laundry and a veggie dinner. We split a pint of frozen yogurt, which was insanely exciting to both of us (so much so that we vowed to split fro yo in every town stop from here on out). After the last three days over Whitney, Forester Pass, Kearsarge Pass and then today’s backtracking, we really treated ourselves well in town.