Day 32: The End

Last night I hung out around the campfire with a couple PCT hikers while Replay snoozed away in the tent. As the night wore one, the group huddled around the fire grew more comfortable with one another and the discussions led to "what is next." I mentioned that we were getting off the trail near one of the ski resorts tomorrow and Ukulele lady, a JMT hiker who Replay and I had met when we were near Red's Meadow, mentioned she could give us ride. She was getting off the trail at South Lake Tahoe versus Truckee where we planned to get off. Our mileage for the day would be much shorter and her husband would be waiting for us. The thought of having someone waiting for us when we got off the trail was very appealing so I mentioned it to Replay this morning.

In true Replay form, she gave me the opportunity to think about how I wanted to end the hike. I could tell she was a "go" but I was on the fence. When Ukulele lady first mentioned it I was completely turned off. I honestly don't want this trip to end. Last night the group around me kept pressuring me to continue on with them. To be honest I couldn't and still can't imagine doing this hike with anyone else. The guys I met last night were totally fun and a great group. The dynamic and speed of my hike would be different though. They stay up late, leave late in the morning, party hard, and don't really stop to enjoy the lakes and vistas around them. Perhaps the reason I've enjoyed this journey so much is the fact that together Replay and I have had time to think, reflect and enjoy.

But getting back to the hike. After breakfast we headed out ahead of the pack. Within 30 minutes all 5 of them passed us shouting "we will see you at second breakfast." This made me laugh because Replay and I don't eat as much as the guys on the trail. I've lost a bit of weight and my legs are the skinniest they've ever been, but my stomach cannot handle all of the calories that my male counterparts are swallowing.

Sure enough around 10:00 we met up with the pack. They were gobbling snickers covered in peanut butter and tasty cake muffins! We snapped a couple of pictures and waved goodbye. Sooner than we expected we were at the end of the trail. I don't even think either one of us expected it! We took a couple more pictures of celebration and sat down to wait for Ukulele lady to catch up to us.

While we were waiting at the picnic tables the pack arrived. We gave them most of our leftover food and offered to empty their trash for them. We also mentioned that we might be able to borrow a car to pick them up at Truckee. All of their eyes sparkled when we mentioned a ride. The one thing I've realized while on the trail is that people are incredibly generous. Everyone you meet is willing to share food, offer a ride if possible, and offer advice. I really wanted to be part of the generosity and more importantly "trail magic." We will see if we can borrow Martha's car in the morning!

Around noon we were in the back of a pickup truck headed down to the shores of Lake Tahoe. Ukulele lady's husband didn't answer his phone, actually I don't think she was able to get a signal on her phone, so we stuck our thumbs out for a ride. Replay and I sat in the back of a pickup with 2 very smelly dogs while Ukulele lady sat up front with the air conditioner. Once at the bottom we immediately jumped in the freezing waters of Lake Tahoe and celebrated our accomplishment. Currently we are waiting for Ukulele lady's husband to arrive and drop us off in Truckee.

Day 32. Tuesday, July 22, 2009. Mileage 1122.6 – Barker Pass. End of the hike.

We walked to a trailhead at Barker Pass and got a hitch out with a day-hiking family and their dogs. They dropped us just off by a highway alongside Lake Tahoe, where a fellow hiker’s husband would be picking us up that afternoon.

Dangermouse and I swam in the massive Lake Tahoe like free fishies and marveled that we had reached our section hike terminus.

Five weeks has passed so fast. I have built my readiness to leave yet I feel immensely sad and emotional. My cup runneth over with the “more-ness” of this hike: It was more demanding both mentally and physically than I anticipated, more fun, more grandiose, more stunning…and more difficult to accept as over. The finality of completing what was truly my dream hike is tough.

But I don’t think I’ve ever been more in awe of the wilderness.

Or more proud of us.

Day 31: Dick's Pass and Dick's Lake

What a morning! We sat alongside Aloha Lake this morning enjoying a breakfast of bagels and almond butter. My stomach has had enough of the peanut butter so when Replay's keen eye spotted the new spread in the grocery store I jumped at the chance. Lately my stomach has been acting up. I'm not sure if it is the double cliff bars, the excessive amount of peanut butter, or the foods high in "added" fiber everyday, but something is just not right with my digestive system. It is sad to say, but getting off the trail might be good for inner health.

We still have 1 more day on the trail and I'm ready to enjoy every last minute of it. After our leisurely morning, we said our goodbyes to Aloha Lake and started off at a pretty quick trot. Just around the bend from our campsite was a pack of PCT boys. 5 dollar, Strider, Oz, Whiskey Jet and Waffle were lazily getting ready for the day. It was about 8:30 and most of them were still not out of their tents. It is almost seems like they are throwing a party every night on the trail! I guess people live it up on the trail in different ways. We did not stay long to chat, but kept up our quick pace.

The path through Desolation Wilderness is incredible. Wild flowers are abundant in pinks, purples, reds and yellows. The trail is mostly alongside of cliffs and does not wind through the trees like the last section before Lake Tahoe. The views over the Valley are simply breath taking. We can see peaks and crags of neighboring mountains for miles on end. At the top of Dick's Peak there was a small spring that refilled my empty water bottle giving me an excuse to stretch my calf muscles that had tightened on the climb.

At the top of the climb there was also a pile of snow! It amazes me that it is now August and I'm still finding snow on the trail. I have so much respect for those PCT hikers who set out early this year. They must have encountered much more snow and ice than I am now. How they knew where the trail went in those conditions is still a mystery to me. The snow covered trail confused Replay and I more than once and caused moments of incredible frustration! This snow patch was nothing like that- thank goodness!

9.6 miles down and Replay and I were lounging on the boulders that bordered Dick's Lake. Since we had both booked it down the mountain after crossing Dick's Peak we decided to nap in the sun. Looking at my tan lines I really needed the sun bathing. I have a lovely white strip under my knee from my Patella Band and the spandex short line isn't too becoming either! Bring on the Sun!

The rest of the day flew by in a flash except for the last 2 miles. All of the sudden my stomach cramped up and things went from bad to worse. Thankfully Replay noticed my uncomfortable state and suggested we stop for the night. The pack of 5 boys also decided to camp with us. What a crew for the last night on the trail!

Day 31. Monday, July 20, 2009. Mileage: 1103 to 1122.6 (19.6 miles)

Breakfast was not oatmeal today! On the rocks of our temporary home on Aloha Lake, we ate almond butter and bagels. The wildflowers this morning were a delight. We saw thru hikers Five Dollar, Waffle, Oz, Whiskey Jet, Strider (like a pack of wild dogs, those boys) on our way up the rocky trail to Dick’s Pass.

We walked quickly to get to Dick’s Lake for a private swim and a sun bath. After eating the perfect lunch (apple, hummus, and cheese and triscuits) on a waterside rock, I absorbed one of my last lake swims on this trip.

Danger and I hiked the last 9.6 miles very fast. We must have passed at least ten tucked away lakes in the morning and early afternoon today; it was all so spectacular.

One lake in particular looked like paradise. Bordered by boulders, this lake dropped off into a small but proud waterfall, which then separated into diverging creeks.

Desolation Wilderness is all that people said it would be, but it could only last so long. The terrain soon turned forested and buggy.

I walked 4.1 miles in an hour to Richardson Lake, which was occupied by several other campers when I arrived.
I am feeling strong physically, like I want to hike for more weeks, but I think mentally I am ready to stop. It feels as though my personal growth is tapering off. I’m not sure what I’m thinking about during the day anymore, and I find myself hiking as fast as possible just to see if I can do it. Danger may be ready to stop hiking too. Her stomach alone seems to be done with trail food.

The pack of wild dogs are trying to catch crawfish in the lake next to my tent.

We’ve decided that tonight is our last night out here.

Day 30: South Lake Tahoe and Aloha Lake

I don't think we've ever moved so fast. We were up by 6:45 am and by 7:05 am, with the bugs dive bombing our heads, we were on the trail dreaming of the breakfast that IHOP had already started preparing for us! Highway 50 was only a short 3 miles away so perhaps this was the reason for our quick departure this morning. Gravy wasn't really up to our speed this morning, but who could blame him. He emerged from the tent with an unhappy look on his face.

"I knew you girls weren't going to leave at 8, but gosh I didn't think you'd be leaving by 7!" He whispered due to the fact that we were sharing our campsite with 2 other hikers.

We assured him all would be okay. We promised to wait for him at the hitch spot because if we stayed any longer the bugs were going to eat us alive. Waving an I'll see you soon goodbye we headed down the trail Replay in the lead.

Within 15 minutes of getting our party all together on the side of the highway, the hitch gods appeared. Rocketman, a friend of Gravy's from earlier in the hike, pulled up in a shiny convertible Mercedes. With the top down and our packs sticking out, we flew down the road towards South Lake Tahoe. When we arrived in town we spotted another group of PCT men. 5 Dollar, Strider, Oz, and Waffle oggled over our ride and told us the best spots in town for our gear and resupply. Soon into the chit-chat our stomachs began to grumble. Rocketman them and mentioned that we'd better get breakfast soon so off we went.

By 10:00 am we were seated in our booths, our large packs shoved in the storage closet in the kitchen. We all started with water, coffee, and a milkshake. Gravy even stepped it up with a Diet Coke! Ordering breakfast was a bit of a comedy routine as we each added an extra item to our order between breaks in the waitress to customer conversation. It didn't seem like long before plates of food arrived at the table. Before this adventure I never could've finished a meal at IHOP, but today I easily polished my plate. I honestly can't think of a time I've enjoyed food that much!

Full and happy we strolled down the street to the local Outfitters. As we walked we promised one another that we would meet in NYC to share stories and pictures from the last part of our hike. Gravy was sad he wouldn't be joining us for the last leg of our hike. He was waiting for a package from the snail mail post office and due to the fact that it was Saturday he was stuck for another 2 days in town. We said our goodbyes at the Outfitters where we all replaced our wornout socks and empty fuel cans.

The next stop on our list was the supermarket. I think we over stuffed our bearvaults, but since we only had 3 days why shouldn't we live it up with extra candy bars and a fresh fruit for every day? After packing everything in, a gentleman we met at the Gas Station down the road gave us a ride back to HWY 50 where we hitched another ride with a climber to the start of the trail. By 4:00 we were on the trail heading towards Echo Summit.

We are now entering Destination Wilderness. The plan is to hike 11.5 miles and then stop for dinner. We've heard amazing things about this part of the trail and I'm incredibly excited to see all the lakes surrounded by huge boulders. I'm getting a bit sad that the hike is coming to an end. I know that we've met our orginal goal and moving further and faster than we both thought possible. Still there is a part of me that wants to hike until the end. We chatted about hiking sections in the future so I'll just keep my fingers crossed those plans come to fruition.

Day 30. Sunday, July 19, 2009. Mileage: 1092.6 – 1103 (11.4 miles)

Due to the relentless bugs this morning, Danger and I broke camp and had breakfast in 30 minutes (our usual time is an hour and fifteen minutes) and started walking towards Lake Tahoe.

We got to a road and waited for Gravy to catch up. About thirty minutes in to our hitch effort, Rocketman (a thru hiker whom Gravy knew who was taking time off the trail with family in Tahoe) rolled up in a BMW convertible. He gave me , Gravy, and Dangermouse a ride into South Lake Tahoe. With the top down and the wind making my bandana dance, I could not stop cheesing at Dangermouse.

Rocketman dropped us at an IHOP where we ate possibly the most built-up and satisfying meal I can recall ever eating. We hit an outfitter for new socks to replace the holey and pathetic socks we were wearing to pieces and then the grocery to load up on veggies and chocolate. Since we only have a couple days left, we weren’t worried about food weight.

We hitched with a motorcross rider in his truck to Highway 50, where we hopped out and chilled in some shade before hitching with a climber to the trailhead from the highway. We’ve had such incredible luck with getting on and off trail to get into towns.

I was back in the woods and happy hiking by 4:00 and we quickly arrived at Echo Lake - a beautiful recreational lake. Edging around the lake for a ways, we walked on a on a very rocky uphill. I twisted my foot on one rocky section from walking carelessly and probably too fast.

We are now in Desolation Wilderness, which everyone has said is very cool. Danger and I are going back and forth in conversation about ending our hike by getting off trail at Forest Route 3, thirty miles farther than that at Donner Pass, or maybe in between at Barker Pass.

We stopped to camp and eat on the rock shores of Aloha Lake, which was an almost unsettlingly beautiful sight. Still waters with stark trees popping up here and there from underwater. I went for an evening swim just off some of the rocks at sunset.

Happy. So very happy.

Day 29. Saturday, July 18, 2009. Mileage: 1074.6 – 1092.6 (18 miles)

I got my days wrong again today. It tickles me to get so confused about the day of the month and the week out here as it sort of highlights its insignificance.

We walked through more wonderfully strewn wildflowers and herbs all morning. After a steady uphill, we soon hit some ATV roads where we became directionally adrift for 30 minutes. We found cairns which settled our debate about which way to go, until not much later when we briefly lost the trail again.

Strangely enough, a Ranger appeared which we used as an opportunity to gripe about the lack of trail markers in an area that is totally compromised by ATV roads. He responded by wasting our time with some elementary quiz on wildernesses etiquette, making me super impatient. Once we got moving again, I returned to my hiking bliss.

We hit a trailhead at Carson Pass by 11:45, where there was a visitor center that provided hikers with free oranges and water. Danger and I then booked it for the next 5.8 miles to Showers Lake, which was a relatively popular spot for resting and swimming. I climbed over some lakeside rocks and found a private nook to serve as our little beach where we swam and dried out in the sun with Gravy for a couple hours.

The afternoon held a steep but quick ascent in sand and a downhill to a creek for dinner. Danger had packed in a surprise heath bar for us to share; what a doll. We ended our nearly perfect day with camping at a nearby second creek crossing. The terrain is beautiful here, especially just north of Carson Pass where we saw wild irises among a lot of other flowers, and moments later some short but steep snow patches. I didn’t notice how steep it was until I slipped on a sharply angled section and slid downwards; my body registered some small amount of danger and adrenaline flow before I realized that some of these sections are still a bit dicey if I’m not careful.

Gravy, Danger and I are completely obsessed with getting into South Lake Tahoe in the early morning to have a debilitating large breakfast at Denny’s or IHOP. All IHOP talk, all the time. I’m going to make myself sick probably but I don’t care.

IHOP or bust.

Day 29: Up up up and away into tourist central

There is just something about the tourist areas that interferes with my sense of direction. This morning we ended up on an ATV road that in the end was really not an ATV at all. Visitors to the park had illegally ridden their bikes on the "hiking only trails" screwing up the information we had on our maps. It clearly stated on the map that the ATV road was to the left of the trail. I had a bit of a freak out, yes again in true Danger form, because we were following a set of deep tire tracks. 10 minutes of searching for the real trail didn't help at all. Replay was pretty firm in her opinion that we were still on the correct trail so I followed along behind her. Just when we thought all trail confusion was over we were stuck scratching our heads again.

When we finally uncovered the wheres and whys to the PCT the day got much calmer and more enjoyable. The wildflowers were in full bloom, the sky was a brilliant blue, and the pass that I didn't know we were climbing until I was at the top had only a slight gradient. There were a couple scary snow-fields mixed in here and there, but I kept Replay in my sights as I powered up the mountain.

Because it was Saturday everyone was out and about. There were large tour groups on "wildflower hunts," families with dogs, and your regular tour group outfitted with name tags. We smiled and waved to our fellow hikers who looked at us with mouths gaping open. We figured since there were such large packs in this area we had to be close to a parking lot with food soon.

Kit Carson Memorial was the destination of all the hikers today. The parking lot was full, people were spilling off the trail and the number of plastic water bottles proved that the occasional hiker was not far from us. Typically Replay and I want to run out of these situations as quickly as possible, but there was a bit of trail magic happening. The rangers provided us with fresh fruit, fresh water and allowed us to throw away all the trash we wanted. Since we had already noshed on the oranges we figured we should wait for Gravy and have lunch at a real picnic table.

While we were waiting for Gravy to show up an ex-Olympian, at least that is what we gathered from his 5 ring tattoo on his right shoulder turned to Replay and told her that we was amazed at her ability to long distance hike. He gushed about the strength and endurance it took and how he could never complete such an adventure. What a compliment!

Once Gravy arrived we plowed through our bear cans eating almost everything that was left inside. Hey the plan is to get to town tomorrow to have two meals. There is no reason why I should have any extra food left over!

The next stop on the itinerary was Showers Lake. Of course Replay and I planned to meet there to see if the Lake was worth a dip. Within an hour we had walked 6 miles and were sun bathing on our own private beach rock. The far side of the lake was all rock. We maneuvered between campsites, hopped a couple large boulders, gingerly stepped over a flood gate of sorts in order to get to our spot. Once we were there it was paradise! We lazed around in the sun for a good hour before peeling our now hot bodies from the cool rocks. We had another 5.2 miles to complete the third 20 mile day.

Anyone excited about tomorrow? I've already started dreaming about milkshakes, pancakes, eggs, and coffee.

Day 28: Lost Lake...and I mean LOST!

The morning started off great. I slept all through the night last night. I might even go as far to say that I got 10 hours. Needless to say I still wasn't moving that quickly. We didn't leave camp until 8:15 am which was only 15 minutes behind Gravy. The first few miles we followed the hoof prints of cattle who we heard clanging around last night as we were falling asleep. Gravy actually saw the cows unlike us.

Our hiking pace quickly turned to a stroll once we entered the "Bad Lands." Sage brush, wild flowers blazing in reds, yellows, greens and purples, and huge cathedral peaks took our attention away from the trail sending us both into a bit of a zen state. The water levels today quickly sent us back onto the trail. The terrain was desert like with temperatures almost as bad. Our skin glistened in the morning sun and began to turn even darker brown as the time headed towards noon. We climbed higher and higher over the rolling meadows, past the tall peaks, and snaking around the U shaped twists and turns of the sandy mountain tops. At one point Replay and I were actually standing face to face with about a 100 meter canyon between us! It was fun to say hello and shout words of encouragement at one another.

By lunchtime we had hiked 8 miles! With so many miles already done for the day we decided an afternoon nap by Pleasant Creek was more than necessary it was required. Actually Replay passed out from the Hershey Bar at lunch and I dipped my feet in the creek before snoozing.

Hell was the word for the afternoon. We had all been lulled into a state of ultimate hiking bliss until we came to the path towards the "Nipple." All of the sudden the creeks were gone, water was nowhere close or accessible and the trail just seemed to be climbing higher and higher without an end in sight. Hunger started to become the constant thought versus the incredible scenery below which I can only say now after eating dinner. It was almost like we were Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz. Flowers lined the fields, but our only thought was about home.

All of the sudden Replay shouted "the lake. I can see the lake. Lets run." For some reason we both took off at a trot. My legs no longer felt heavy as a jogged over the path's rubble, switching back and forth along the trail as I made the descent. The moment we saw Lost Lake we dumped our bags and jumped in for a swim.

Gosh 20 mile days are tough. How will I fare for day 3 of this?

Day 28. Friday, July 17, 2009. Mileage: 1054.4 – 1074.6 (20.2 miles)

Hiking, breaking, and camping with Gravy has been fun and we have temporarily melded into a threesome from our twosome. We are in Mokelumne Wilderness, which this morning has looked like the Bad Lands again, desert-like but with a stimulating intensity.

We took a series of pictures in karate poses or, as Danger insisted, “kicking butt” pictures.

The trail was smoothly graded and the small ups and downs averaged out to relative flatness reminiscent of the first half of the trip around Kennedy Meadows.

We made great time. We had lunch by a pleasant valley creek and had a short power nap. I got off trail for 5 minutes and found myself in some strange lot. I realized I was off the trail and began to backtrack, yelling “Dangermouse!” on the off chance that she might hear me. She did, and we started back on the trail together.

Gravy had heard a hearsay rumor of trail magic at Spur Trailhead but no luck. The 2.4 climb up The Nipple was beautiful and through partly open meadow, but it was a harder and longer hike than I expected at the day’s end. Having been out of drinking water for several miles made the end of the day difficult too, but Danger shared some of her water and I could then enjoy the views and the wildflowers more.

I wanted a lake swim more than I wanted a town day, and two beautiful lakes beckoned to me from about 1000 feet below The Nipple, on either side of the ridge. Walking a tightrope above them both and hoping to soon drop down into one, we began to jog downhill, laughing all the way.

We jogged to the more eastern of the lakes and jumped in within minutes of getting there.

Shortly thereafter, Gravy joined us and we ate dinner while playing trivia from our bank of memorized oatmeal package questions. The three of us camped at a beautiful lakeside that boasted another disappearance into seeming nothingness on one end. A bear came in the middle of the night and took off with someone’s dog food at our campsite at Lost Lakes, and I am hugely disappointed that I didn’t wake up to see that bear! UGHHH.

Day 27. Thursday, July 16, 2009. Mileage: 1035.2 – 1054.4 (19.2 miles)

The scents today! Wildflowers abounded and a lemon scented brush was everywhere. What it is I have no idea, but the smell is impossible to breathe in without exhaling with an ‘ahh’. It is all so constantly rejuvenating in the shapes and colors and smells.

I think we are in Stanislaus National Forest and the Carson Iceberg Wilderness. Today was ridge walking and waterfalls and dark rocks. The scenery seems to a combination of the proximity to the Nevada border and then occasional forays into what I imagine the Pacific Northwest to look like. The easier grade makes the miles and the time fly. I felt very content hiking alone and soaking up my last week on the PCT. I enjoy these mild ups and downs like a gentle rollercoaster, more so than plainly flat terrain.

We swam in the somewhat disappointing Asa Lake. We wanted one of those crystal clear lake swims, and Asa Lake was grimy and squishy bottomed. Gravy joined us and we all had a little nap together before hitting the trail for the afternoon miles.





The next 3 miles were awesomely different. The trail cut into the sides of lushly vegetated mountains in the shape of a giant “V”, so that Danger and I could look across the divide at the other, looking small and almost misplaced in the green wildness. We made dinner and camped at Upper Kinney Lake, the northern end of which dropped off a vista like an infinity pool.

Encircled by rocky mountains and protective trees, our tent window faced the tranquil lake and its dramatically sharp disappearance; it made for the best view from our tarp home yet. Gravy pointed out the nearby sound of cow bells in the distance.
My right quad is tired.
26 nights of sleeping in a tent with Dangermouse and we’re still happy hikers. That is a fortunate hiking partnership.

Day 27: A 20 mile day!

We decided as a group, Gravy included, that it would be best to arrive in Echo Lake by morning. The thought of a huge breakfast and a huge lunch all in one day conjured thoughts of indescribable bliss. In order to accomplish this task it was necessary to walk at least 20 miles for the next 3 days. As an inexperienced long distance hiker the thought of walking 20 miles is a bit daunting, but to be honest there are two important things right now. The first is food and the second is mileage.

Off we went. The vistas in this part of the country have changed a great deal. The sky seems a bit bluer and the wildflowers span the rainbow. The lakes are also more plentiful and it is now a tradition to jump in every single one we pass. ASA lake was the first up. It was actually a bit muddy and more like a pond, but it took away the sweat from the morning and provided a perfect reason to snooze in the sun. Gravy hadn't caught up to us yet so we took a very relaxed stride and stopped yet again at the next lake for another nap. At Highway 4 we crossed paths with Gravy and arrived at camp by 6:30.

Home tonight is incredible. Our tent is perched on a rock overlooking Upper Kinney Lake. I almost feel as if I'm in a private country club. The lake spills off the side into another lake below just like an infinity pool. The sky frames the view with purples and deep blues making it almost too perfect.

If only my camera could really capture the true beauty of this place. Perhaps it is a good thing that only hikers can reach this spot. If too many people were to realize the perfection of this spot it might be lost and destroyed within minutes.